Weekly SUP training group: technique coaching, downwinders, and time trials every Wednesday

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Our Wednesday SUP training group is the longest continuously running training group in the world!

Please also sign up to this Facebook group for updates:  Hawaii Downwind Paddlers Facebook Group

The Stand Up Paddling Association of Hawaii (SUPAH), sponsored by Blue Planet Surf and Wet Feet, is holding a weekly training group event every Wednesday, this page will have the latest updates, results and coaching videos/ information posted.  The group is coached by Robert Stehlik and Jeff Chang as well as guest coaches.  Depending on wind conditions we meet to do a downwinder from Hawaii Kai to Kahala, or a time trial or interval training in Hawaii Kai.

Wednesday until further notice: We are meeting by the Hawaii Kai boat ramp, unless we are doing a downwinder, in which case we are meeting in Kahala.  Please make sure to subscribe to the e-mails so you get the latest information.  We also post updates on the Oahu Downwind Paddlers facebook group, please ask to join if you want to be part of this facebook group.

Meeting place for the Wednesdays training group: This sign by the Hawaii Kai boat ramp

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We welcome anyone to join our weekly training group, although these sessions are targeted towards intermediate and advanced paddlers to improve their technique and to improve fitness through regular high intensity training.  We will usually run the regular time trial course which can be shortened for those that do not want to paddle the whole 2 mile course.  Sometimes will do shorter sprint training sessions.  If the wind is good, we will do a Hawaii Kai to Kahala downwind run (for downwinders, we meet at Kahala earlier, please sign up for the e-mail newsletter to get updates).  If you are a beginner, we recommend taking some private SUP lessons first as our coaching topics are geared towards more advanced paddlers.

Click here for information on Blue Planet SUP rentals.

Click here for more information coached downwind runs.  

Click here for information on private SUP lessons.

This is the time trial course, approximately 2 miles. 

When the wind is good, our training group does a Kahala run downwinder instead of the time trial.  Please sign up for the newsletter to know when to meet for a downwinder instead of the time trial.  We meet at Wai'alae Beach park in Kahala and launch from the Canoe Hale in Hawaii Kai for downwinders.  If you have never done a downwinder before, please sign up for a private coached downwind run before you join the group runs. 

On windy days, our training group does this Kahala Run (about 5 miles) and a shorter run (about 2.5 miles) for those less experienced in downwind paddling.  

Wai'alae Beach park in Kahala is the meeting place (and finish) when we do the downwind course.  Please sign up for the weekly newsletter to fins out when and where to meet on Wednesdays afternoons.

The results of the time trials are posted online on Racesplitter:

http://racesplitter.com/blueplanetsurf-wetfeet

The first training group is always FREE to newcomers.  If you are attending for the second (or more) time, we ask that you make a contribution to SUPAH. You can purchase a single session for $15 or a 10 session pass for $100. If you purchase a pass we will keep track of your usage. All proceeds are a donation to the Stand Up Paddle Association of Hawaii, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, whose mission is to promote SUP training, racing and youth development.  We don't take payments at the event, so please go to this link to make a payment: http://wetfeet.rezgo.com/details/50782/training-clinic Demo boards: Please reserve a demo race board with 24 hour notice with either Robert or Jeff, please make a $40 contribution per demo board use which includes transport to and from the event. Mahalo! This is the windguru wind forecast page we like to check, if we have good, moderate Tradewinds from an easterly direction, we will usually do a downwinder: http://www.windguru.cz/int/index.php?sc=20449

All participants are required to sign this waiver form before participating.  We will have forms available or you can print the form and bring it to the next meeting

This is a video playlists of videos from our weekly training groups, so keep watching to see all the videos from the last few years:

Below is the video from last weeks class, taking another look at stroke technique.  Everyone has been improving their technique.  We will watch this as a group and talk about things we notice, this video has no narrating or music, just raw footage.  I edited the footage to put each paddlers clips together.  Watch yourself a few times and see what you can learn about your own stoke.  Look at the reach, catch, lower hand grip position, stroke rate, shoulder twist, lean, exit, feather, relaxed recovery, breathing, etc, all the things we have talked about.

The Blue Planet team with the 2016 race board models

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Aloha, Robert Stehlik

www.blueplanetsurf.com

SUP Stroke technique video analysis from Stand Up Paddle racing workshop

This is a 18 minute video from our North Shore SUP racing workshop held this morning, Aug. 21st.
We had 8 participants and two coaches:  Dennis Pang and myself.
If a picture says a thousand words, video says even more and seeing yourself paddle is very helpful, so I focused on getting everyone's stroke on video both from land and from a wide angle camera mounted on the front of the board.  The video is intended mostly for the 8 participants to understand their stroke better and find small things they can work on.  I think anyone trying to make their stroke more efficient, fast, and powerful can benefit from watching this.
Refining your stroke is not something that happens overnight, you need to put in the time and practice and the more you do it, the more efficient your stroke will become.
There is no right or wrong way to paddle but one thing that all good paddlers seem to have in common is good reach and catch.
Thanks to all the participants, I hope you had a good time and enjoy the video, please leave a comment!



Video stroke analysis at the Blue Planet SUP race workshop on Aug. 21st, 2011.

If you are confused by the terms used in the voiceover, please read the technique posts here- parts 2,3,4.
In retrospect, I should have added some video of a pro paddler with good technique.

In the photo below, Danny Ching shows excellent form during the power phase:  shoulders stacked, paddle vertical, arms straight, transferring the power from the core and back directly to the paddle.

photo: Chris Silvester

Blue Planet and Wet Feet now offer weekly race/ technique coaching followed by a time trial, every wednesday at 5 pm in Hawaii Kai.  Click here for more information on the weekly coaching/ time trial.

Links to the paddle technique series posts:

Paddle Technique Part 0: Introduction to SUP

Paddle Technique Part 1: Choosing the Right Paddle

Paddle Technique Part 2: The Three Ingredients of a Powerful Stroke
Paddle Technique Part 3: Stacking the Shoulders

Paddle Technique Part 4: Reach and Catch

Paddle Technique Part 5: Recovery, Paddle Length and Grip

Paddle Technique Part 6: Turning the Board

Aloha, Robert Stehlik

www.blueplanetsurf.com

SUP Downwind Clinic video- with Nicole Madosik, Jared Vargas, Morgan Hoeserey, Kainoa Beaupre

One of our customers asked me if I could join him on a downwind paddle and give him some tips.  I invited some other customers and got help from some of my friends who also happen to be some of the fastest paddlers on Oahu to put together the first Blue Planet Downwind Paddle Clinic the week before the BOP Hawaii.  We filmed the tips we gave on the beach before getting on the water and I put them together in a series of downwind paddling clinic videos that are 4-8 minutes each.  If you have not seen the previous post, please also watch the video with Hawaii Kai run downwind racing tips.  The last video (Part 6) has some gopro video from the water where you can see some of the participants putting what they learned into action.



Blue Planet Downwind Clinic part 1 with tips from Nicole Madosik and Jared Vargas


Blue Planet Downwind Clinic - Part 2 with tips from Jared Vargas and Morgan Hoesterey



Blue Planet Downwind Clinic- Part 3 with tips from Robert Stehlik and Kainoa Beaupre



Downwind Clinic- Part 4-Kainoa Beaupre with more downwind tips and line to Kaimana



Downwind Clinic- Part 5, Kainoa Beaupre talks about the inside line from Kaimana to Fort De Russy



Downwind Clinic - Part 6: End of the beach clinic and into the water

Timing and Efficiency

There is a good game on OCpaddler.com called 40 strokes, where the goal is to go as far as possible with 40 strokes using the waves.  It teaches you timing and to use your strokes as efficiently as possible (although it is limited to two dimensions, in real life, going left and right can make a big difference).  I have been able to get a score of just over 1900 but have not been able to get over 2000 as some others have.  For tips, read some of the comments posted.

Aloha,

Robert Stehlik

www.blueplanetsurf.com

Some thoughts on water flowing over a Stand Up Paddle- by Robert Stehlik

Quickblade's Jim Terrell recently came out with an excellent video breaking down the SUP stroke with high tech video analysis.   If you have not seen it, watch it in the window below (double click for full screen view).

The video analysis clearly shows that on longer raceboards at cruising speeds, good paddlers plant the paddle and move past it.  It shows Rob Rojas in slow motion, planting the paddle, applying power with the shaft bending and no visible "slippage", the blade merely rotates at the waterline.   With his forward momentum, he actually pulls the blade out in front of the spot he planted it.  To me this clearly shows that once the blade is planted, the water is compressed against the face of the blade and there is very little "slippage" or backward movement.  This made me think more about how a paddle blade moves through the water.  I'm not a scientist or paddle designer but just want to share some of my thoughts.

When people talk about paddle blade design they usually explain how the shape and design of the blade moves through the water, visualizing how the blade face gets pulled backward through the water.

In reality, during an efficient race stroke, there is very little movement of the blade once it is planted.  The water is compressed against the face of the blade and if the force is applied at the right time in the right dosage, there is very little slippage or movement of the blade backwards, it is effectively planted in the water, not moving through the water.

So, most of the movement of the blade through the water occurs when the blade is sliced down into the water during the catch and when it is pulled out of the water during the release.  In both cases, the paddle moves sideways, or tip first with water rushing past both sides of the blade.

When you think of it this way, most of the water flowing over the paddle is not flowing over or past the face of the blade but moving sideways, during the catch and release.  When designing a paddle the concern should be to make the sideways movement during catch and release as smooth and efficient as possible as this is the way the paddle travels through the water the most: slicing into and out of the water.

Instead of looking at the face of the blade, look at the edge/ tip and side profile of the paddle as that is the direction the blade moves through the water mostly.  It seems to me that a thin, flat blade should be most efficient slicing through the water sideways, while paddles with big spines, concaves, curves or other features designed to "catch" more water will only disrupt a clean sideways entry and exit.  It seems that a mild dihedral close to the waterline will not disrupt the waterflow during entry or exit much but maybe Kialoha is onto something with their completely flat, relatively thin blades.

It also means that it does not matter whether you put a sticker on the face or back of the blade, the sticker edge might cause a tiny bit more friction on either side during catch and release, but should not make a difference during the power phase.

So what's up with those "magic" golf ball dimples on the face of the Quickblade elite racer
blades?

Some people seem to think they are designed to "hold" more water.

According to the Quickblade website FAQ section:

Q -

What is the difference between the Elite racer and the Magic?

A -The Magic paddle is identical to the Elite racer with the difference of the blade surface.

Q -What is the special feature on the QB Magic paddle?

A -The QB Magic paddle has dimples on the backside of the blade similar to a golf ball. This has proven to be most effective for very strong powerful paddles that can drive it with force.
I'm kind of puzzled by this.  The dimples are on the face of the blade, not the backside (I guess it depends how you look at it).I think they mean to say it works well for powerful paddlers. I would think that the dimples would be most effective at reducing friction when the paddle is moving through the water sideways, much like dimples in a golf ball make it travel farther with less friction(I think that's why they have dimples anyways, correct me if I'm wrong).Do they work?  I can't tell the difference and neither can anyone I talked to that tried both but it's one of those things that if you believe in it, it works.  It's called the placebo effect.  At $10 more than the non-dimpled elite race paddle the dimples are cheaper than a holographic power band bracelet and might actually do something (although it also makes the blade about an ounce heavier).
Just don't put a fat paddle edge guard on a Magic blade, that would just be silly.
If the purpose of the dimples is to reduce friction during catch and release, the dimples really should be on both sides of the blade, not just on the face of the blade, as the water rushes past both sides equally.  And if it really reduces friction, why not cover the bottom of the board with dimples, too?

If you are into the science of flow and friction, you will enjoy this scientific explanation posted by ehrawn on standupzone.com:
The text is easier to read in the comment section below, where I posted the same text again.

Here is a good illustration of what's happening with a golf ball. http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/aerodynamics/q0215.shtml "Since the laminar boundary layer around the smooth sphere separates so rapidly, it creates a very large wake over the entire rear face. This large wake maximizes the region of low pressure and, therefore, results in the maximum difference in pressure between the front and rear faces." In comparison, lets look a flat plate. First, perpendicular to the flow: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient "fluid approaching the object is brought to rest, building up stagnation pressure over the whole front surface." Negative pressure builds at the back because of the eddies that form along the edges which adds to the effective drag. The flow around the plate will be turbulent even at very low velocities. But parallel to the flow: http://www.roymech.co.uk/Related/Fluids/Fluids_Drag.html "You'll notice that there is no advantage to creating turbulent flow earlier on plate, like there was with the sphere. You won't get less wake or any other advantage because pressure drag is negligible to skin friction. So lets talk numbers. Drag Coefficient depends on the Reynold's Number which is a function of velocity, but, common estimates for the drag coefficient of sphere is about 0.47. A flat plate perpendicular to the flow is about 1.17. A flat plate parallel in laminar flow is about 0.001, and in turbulent flow about 0.005. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drag-coefficient-d_627.html Drag force depends on the drag coefficient and a "frontal area" which we can just assume is the same for all cases: for the parallel plate, it's actually the side area, if you get what I'm saying. As such, the drag force for the parallel plate is 2-3 OOM less than the other two scenarios. So then you get into the question about laminar vs turbulent. Crunching some numbers: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynolds_number L is the length of the blade. Assuming I can get the paddle in the water in about 0.5 sec, in sea water, your looking at a Re of about 1.1 * 10^9. Re > 10^6 is so we are way turbulent. Essentially, what I'm trying to argue is that I don't think there is an advantage to making the flow turbulent on catch and release. I'm guessing that a quick catch will get you turbulent even without the dimples. Even if there was and effect caused by the dimples, it would be so minuscule compared to rest of the stroke, that it wouldn't be noticeable to the paddler. Look at the mechanics of a stroke. As soon as the blade enters the water, the perpendicular flow is going to be all that the paddler feels. At the release, there's going to be so much cavitation at the back of the paddle, as soon as you stop applying forward pressure, the built up pressure on the face and suction on the back will pull the blade into the void…not really a void but a low pressure volume. Again, it will already be turbulent flow, so dimples aren't going to do anything. Of course, the focus of my masters was mechanics. I haven't studied fluids since my undergrad, so, Robert, how'd i do?" Aloha, Robert Stehlik www.blueplanetsurf.com

SUP Paddle technique: Part 1- Choosing the right paddle- by Robert Stehlik

Click here for a newer post reviewing 2012 SUP paddles

This is the first part of a series of paddle technique posts.  First things first, before getting into the technique you need the right paddle to work with.

Topics:
Shaft: Length and shape
Blade: size and shape
Materials: flex, weight, pricing
Fixed length vs. adjustable
Double bend shafts

When people talk about SUP equipment it is usually about the board while the paddle is often neglected despite it's importance. Some factors to consider when choosing a paddle are:


Shaft:
There is no set formula for length, more of a personal preference. If in doubt, size the paddle longer and temporarily tape the handle without gluing it, then shorten it to a comfortable length and epoxy it in. Remember, it is easier to shorten the shaft but difficult to lengthen it once it's cut.  As a guideline, for surfing, the paddle should be about 6"-9" taller than user.  For flat water paddling/ racing it should be 9"-12" taller (or more). Some other factors to consider are the thickness and floatation of the board used (the thicker the board and the higher you are up off the water, the longer the paddle should be); the dimensions of the blade (a paddle with a long, narrow blade needs to be longer than a short, wide blade). As a rule of thumb, if you stand the paddle upside down on the handle, the base of the blade (waterline when paddling) should be at nose or eye level for distance paddling.

I hear that if the paddle is too long, it can cause the shoulder to over-extend and can be harder to "power up".  At 6'2" (74") I have never had this problem as most paddles are 85" or so uncut and I actually wish I could try a paddle that's a few inches longer than that.
If the paddle is too short, it forces the paddler to hunch over which can cause lower back problems. A shorter paddle also limits forward reach and leverage and makes it more difficult to plant the whole blade in the water before applying power.  If your paddle is too short, you will not be able to effectively use the technique tips in this series.

For more information on paddle length, this is a good one from Bill at Ke Nalu:
Measure Twice, Cut Once

Update December 2013:
Please note that since I wrote this post in 2010, many paddlers have started using shorter paddles (and also smaller blades) to quicken stroke rate and for better handling in the surf.  Some SUP surfers use paddles that are as short as head high, which makes it easier to accelerate quickly and switch sides smoothly when surfing but for the average paddler this is really too short.  I still like to use paddles that are at least 6" over my head, even for surfing and I don't recommend going shorter than that with your first paddle.  Once you have good posture and technique and your back muscles are conditioned, you are ready to experiment with shortening your shaft.

The video below is from Part 5 of this series where I talk about recovery but I'm posting it here as well because I talk about paddle length in the video and it's helpful to watch this before going out and buying a paddle. 

The shape of the shaft and handle are important and personal preference matters- it should feel comfortable in your hands. I find smaller, oval shaped shafts and rounded palm grips most comfortable. Try the feel of several paddles and see which ones feels most comfortable in your hands. While rounded palm grips are comfortable, the rounded edges are not as easy to catch.  If you often miss or slip off a rounded palm grip and bang yourself in the head with it, as I have done many times, you might find a T-handle easier to catch with your thumb as you switch sides, like in the picture below.  It helps to slide the hand up along the shaft to catch the handle when switching, which I like for surfing.

Blade:
The most important consideration when choosing a blade is to match the surface area of the blade to the paddler. Think of a 10 speed bike: you use a low gear to accelerate and/or go uphill and switch to a higher gear as you are going faster. If you suddenly stop the bike in a high gear and then try to get it going again, you have to apply all your weight to the pedals while the bike is barely moving forward. Accelerating in a high gear is very slow and exhausting. This is what happens if you are using a blade that is too big. Since a paddle is more like a single speed bike, you need to choose a blade that is small enough to let you accelerate easily and paddle uphill (into the wind) but still big enough to hold water at higher speeds without cavitation. Generally, a lighter, smaller paddler should use a smaller blade, while a heavier, stronger paddler can go with a bigger blade.
To use the same gearing comparison- a longer paddle is like a higher gear with more leverage while a shorter paddle is like a lower gear with faster stroke rate. You can somewhat adjust the "gearing" by changing the grip of the lower hand on your paddle (some move both hands lower on the shaft, effectively making their paddle shorter). Gripping the shaft lower will result in a "low gear" for accelerating and going upwind while gripping it higher will result in a "high gear" with longer reach for higher speeds.


These are the  C4 Waterman paddles I use, the upper blade is my surfing blade, the lower my distance/ racing blade (XPR), which has a slightly larger surface area (same width but longer blade).  The shaft on the surfing paddle is also about 2" shorter than my racing paddle.  When surfing, you need to be able to accelerate from a complete stop to catch a wave, so a "lower gear" works better, while distance paddling is more about maintaining a higher speed where a "high gear" is more efficient.

There are many blade outlines and shapes on the market and some work better than others. I find that a dihedral or "spine" on the face of the blade will somewhat reduce "flutter", the tendency of the blade to move side to side when powered up.   The picture above shows the dihedral and carbon/ kevlar blend weave of the blade. 

A thin blade edge will allow smooth water entry and exit but is also more likely to damage the rails of the board. A plastic paddle edge guard will protect the rails and paddle edge and is highly recommended for entry level paddlers. The down side is that it makes the entry and exit of the paddle less efficient. Quickblade uses a ABS plastic blade edge- a good idea that keeps the weave on the edge of the paddle from getting frayed and splintered although it won't do much to protect the rails.

The sharp edges of this blade are covered by plastic paddle edge guard which can be removed later if you feel it is no longer needed.  You don't need to use superglue when applying it.  Warming the edge guard up in the hot sun or in a microwave (about 15 sec.) before applying it will soften the rubber and make the glue strip inside more tacky.  A good shop will apply it for you professionally.  Clear rail tape for the board is also recommended to protect your investment as most damage occurs on the widest part of the rails.

Materials, Flex, Weight:
So you found a paddle length and blade size that works well for you. Another important aspect is construction. The paddle should feel "lively" and have a "snappy" flex. The paddle should flex naturally when you power it up and release the flex at the end of the stroke. There is some controversy as to whether flex is lost power. I find that as I learned to release the blade efficiently I can direct the stored energy of the flex forward to send the paddle back forward into the reach position, making the recovery effortless and giving the body a moment to relax. Good paddles are constructed to allow a powerful, snappy flex. Weight is important in distance paddling as a heavier paddle will tire out the paddler sooner.  Since the paddle is lifted out of the water hundreds of times during distance paddling, every ounce matters here.

Here are some of the pros and cons of the most commonly used paddles on the market:


Aluminum Paddles:
Pros: Anodized aircraft aluminum is strong, corrosion resistant, and affordable.
Cons: weight- usually heavier, not much flex

The Aquaglide aluminum vario paddle is strong, adjustable and affordable- a good choice for entry level and family use.

Wood Paddles:
Pros: Natural flex- wood has a great flex that is easy on the joints. Wood paddles are usually handcrafted and can be personalized works of art. They are also made mostly from natural and renewable resources and are therefore more environmentally friendly.  Some paddlers swear by wood paddles, see this blog post by Jenny Kalmbach.

Cons: Weight to strength ratio- wood paddles can be heavier and/or not as strong for the same weight and can be expensive.

Everpaddle makes beautiful wood paddles from reclaimed wood.


Many manufacturers of quality wood paddles have been making outrigger paddles for many years. Some of the nicest wood paddles I have seen were made by: Gillespie, Pure, Malama, Hawaiian Paddle, Whiskeyjack, and Johnson Big Stick

Fiberglass Paddles:
Pros: flexible, strong, inexpensive compared to carbon.  Great choice for everyday or heavy duty (surf) use, very strong if made well.

Cons: heavier than carbon, flex is softer.

Carbon Paddles:
Pros: Light and stiff, snappy flex, preferred construction for most racing paddles.
Cons: Can be too stiff (hard on joints) if not designed well, expensive.  Carbon is stiffer and will break at a certain point, while fiberglass and kevlar allow for more flex before breaking, it is also sensitive to nicks and dings that can weaken the integrity of the whole paddle.


Note: There are some cheap "carbon paddles" on the market that are really just "carbon veneer" paddles made mostly with fiberglass covered by an outside layer of carbon.  These paddles should be marketed as "carbon/ fiberglass composite" paddles.  In windsurfing, most mast manufacturers specify the carbon content- i.e. 30%, 70% or 100% carbon.  This would be helpful on paddles as well as the cost of carbon is significantly higher than glass.  There are also different grades of carbon with some of the top grades being very expensive.  If you want to check if your paddle is 100% carbon,  look at the uncut shaft of the paddle, a 100% carbon paddle will be all black, if you see clear inside, those are layers of fiberglass, see picture below.  A mix of carbon and fiberglass will be heavier than 100% carbon but also allows for more flex and may be stronger, so some glass in the paddle can be a good thing but make sure you compare apples to apples when it comes to pricing.

Look for rings- the bottom shaft is 100% carbon, while the top two are a blend of carbon on the outside and glass on the inside, you can see the different colored rings, the top two have 30% to 50% carbon content.

Composite Paddles:
Carbon, fiberglass, and other materials such as Kevlar, dynel, wood and others can be combined.  
Pros: Composite materials can improve flex and weight to strength ratio if designed well.
Different fabric materials and composition, weaves and wrapping/ layup can be used to influence flex characteristics and feel, there are many opportunities for innovation and testing in this area.
Cons: can be more expensive, new technology still being perfected.


Most blades have a foam core which should be made of high quality PVC foam.  Low quality foam can cause the blade to delaminate and bubble from heat/ moisture.

Fixed length vs. adjustable:

If you are the only one using the paddle and don't use it for travel, a fixed length paddle is the best choice as it is lighter and has better flex characteristics than an adjustable length or two piece paddle. If you are sharing the paddle with others, having an adjustable length is a nice feature. For travel, it's nice to have a two or even three piece paddle that can easily store in your luggage.

Double bend paddles:

The picture below shows a Werner Paddles double bend paddle shaft vs. straight shaft, illustrating how the double bend allows extra reach.  The double bend also allows a straighter grip angle for the lower hand and reportedly reduces flutter.  I have had a chance to try one of these but not enough to say if I like it better than a straight shaft  The lower hand grip is more ergonomic and comfortable but it did not have the snappy flex I am used to on a straight shaft.  I ordered one and am expecting it soon.  I will do some more testing and report my findings here.  Any comments are welcome. Werner does not recommend bent shafts for use in the surf.



Double Bend Update 3/1/11:  
I received a double bend Werner paddle about a month ago and have been using and testing it since.   Although the paddle does not seem to make me faster, I have noticed that my sore "tennis elbow" seems to bother me less after paddling with the bent shaft vs. straight shaft.  The more ergonomic grip seems to be easier on the lower arm grip, wrist and arm and I am very happy with that.  I'm not crazy about the way it flexes and the slightly heavier weight.  The flex is quite stiff and not as continuous and lively as the straight shaft race paddles I'm used to.  The scooped, relatively narrow and long Fuse blade (110 sq.in.) works well for me.  The paddle makes it easy to get a good reach (as illustrated in the picture above) and the narrow blade feels smaller than other blades with 110 sq.in. size.   While the scoop in the blade helps getting a smooth, quick catch, it makes a clean release a little more difficult.  It tends to throw out more water than a straight blade if it is pulled straight up and out of the water and I had to adjust to get a nice clean release.  I did not have any issues switching the paddle but have heard others say it took them a while to adjust to switching sides with the double bend.  The unique Werner handle is comfortable and effective once I got used to it.  There is room for improvement (I would like to try a double bend with more flex and a blade with less or no scoop, also a little longer than the max. 86" height offered for me at 6'2") but the bent shaft has become my paddle of choice for racing and training.


My friend, Kevin Seid had a good analogy:  The paddle is like the samurai sword of the Zen Waterman.  It should  become like an extension of the body.  Intimate knowledge of your equipment is part of the way of the waterman.

Click here for Part 2 - The three ingredients of a powerful stroke. 


For more thoughts on how water moves over the paddle and paddle design

Paddle weights, just like the board weights claimed by manufacturers are often not very accurate (and manufacturers don't include the weight of the handle).  We have a reasonably accurate postal scale at the shop and I asked our two summer interns to weigh all the paddles (un cut and with the handle) and make a spreadsheet sorting them from lightest to heaviest paddle and our retail price.
I did not confirm the weights and it's possible that there are some mistakes but overall they seem pretty accurate.  Some paddles, like the Quickblades, come with different size blades and the girls did not specify the size weighed.  Also, some paddles had a plastic bag and/or hangtag which adds a little weight and some un-cut paddles are shorter than others.  Depending on how much shaft is cut off, the cut paddle will be a little lighter but then you have to add a little for the epoxy glue used.
So, here is a link to the spreadsheet:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Au9qxAnW7ZMddEl5T2ppUHpmanFPYklsYm9MdHBMa2c&hl=en_US


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Click here to get a free ebook on choosing a paddle written by Bill Babcock of Ke Nalu paddles.  It's a little biased and should be called "choosing the right Ke Nalu paddle for you" but has some great information.
 
Thanks for reading, Aloha!

Links to the paddle technique series posts:

Paddle Technique Part 0: Introduction to SUP

Paddle Technique Part 1: Choosing the Right Paddle

Paddle Technique Part 2: The Three Ingredients of a Powerful Stroke
Paddle Technique Part 3: Stacking the Shoulders

Paddle Technique Part 4: Reach and Catch

Paddle Technique Part 5: Recovery, Paddle Length and Grip

Paddle Technique Part 6: Turning the Board
Paddle Technique Part 7: Catching Waves

After the 2009 BOP distance race L to R: Kainoa Beaupre, Edmund Pestana, Zane Schweitzer, Robert Stehlik

Aloha,

Robert Stehlik

www.blueplanetsurf.com