I learned this morning that I just had a friend pass
away. His name was Mel Kinney. If there were ever a waterman it was he. Eddie Aikau would call him “The Kid” as he
was the only 16 year old charging huge Waimea Bay in the early 70’s.
I met Mel when I was only 14. He must have been 30 or so. He looked like a gnarly Hawaiian guy, and at
first I was quite intimidated by him.
The older guys at the surf-break Daimond Head Lighthouse in the early
days would sometimes bully us young kids around. Out of his good heart, Mel made sure that
everything was cool with all and protected us.
He did not need to do this but he did.
Mel adopted us young kids and
took care of us. We felt safe when he
was around him.
My most vivid memories of him were at Laniakea and
Light-house surfing. He would nose-ride
barreling waves and go vertical on his longboard at Daimondhead. At Laniakea, he would glide into Hawaiian 10
footers with ease. His surfing style
reminded me of an Ali’i Nui (King) of old.
His noble behavior also justified my belief that he was indeed modern
day royalty in the best sense.
Mel would do really cool things. One of our mutual surfer friends was having a
long stay in the hospital in the states.
Mel came to the beach with a black pen (the expensive kind) and a few
brand new surf mags. He passed the
magazines to everyone at Diamond Head and had them sign them as a type of
“surfer get well card” too are hospitalized friend. There was a huge amount of signatures. I learned something that day. I thought to myself: “that’s the kind of
friend I want to have”. To this day, I
surround myself with kind, heartfelt people and I am happy. Good Karma people. Thanks Mel.
He never talked stink about anyone, cared for all, yet knew
when to demand his dignity. This is
another thing I learned from Mel: That
to be respected requires you to give respect first.
One day Mel told me that ” he could not wait to see me jump
off shortboards and go to longboards”. I thought the comment was a bit odd but the
rest is history. Mel was one reason that I longboard today. He encouraged me to go to the new craft. Besides he looked like he was having so much
fun on his longboard. I had to do it.
The first time I surfed 8’ foot Hawaiian style waves was
with Mel. Oddly enough the wave was in
town not the North Shore. We met up at a
spot called Browns, arguably one of the heaviest waves on the South Shore, a
favorite of Mel’s. When we pulled up, it
was unusually big for the South Shore.
I was scared. There were a lot of
broken boards and the only spot surf-able on this huge swell was Bowls and the
break we were at. Mel was stoked and
wanted to rush out yet he took the time to show me the channel, how the break
worked and the exact line up points. He
even taught me how to bail my board! Mel
and I had a blast that day.
Mel had a big Hawaiian smile. I loved his humor, his dignity and his
willingness to help all. In short he
was one of the last people that I knew that still “payed attention” through
kindness, education and friendship.
They just don’t build them like that anymore.
I will miss you Mel, yet your energies are carried on by
your influence with all.